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Friday, September 28, 2012

A Day In the Life




Hello! Sorry for my absence from the internet (and unresponsiveness to Facebook messages/emails). I love, love, love hearing from you all (so keep em coming!) and yes, I’m alive and well over here :) We've been having frequent power outages, usually right when I am planning to go on the computer.

Overall, I’m feeling really happy about life here. Sometimes I step out of my body for a second and just laugh at how crazy it is that I’m in GHANA, pounding fufu or squishing between two "obolo" (big, fat) ladies on the way to school or marching back and forth for an hour with a wooden fake rifle in the sun (more about that below). This week was week two of school and the first week of classes (apparently it’s normal here for no teachers to come for the first week haha). New experiences and learning about Ghanaian culture have been keeping me really busy – here’s a little of what I’ve done in the past week: I went to a couple different markets (THAT is an experience...they're a little different from Eastern Market), wandered around downtown Accra with some other exchange students, went out for milkshakes in Osu with my sister and a couple of her friends, played soccer with the guys from my class, learned how to make banku, helped my little host cousin Kofi learn his ABC's (by using old charcoal as chalk to write them on the ground), and much much more! I've also finished two really good books since I got here (The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao and The Beautiful Things That Heaven Bears), and I started a third today (The Millionaire Teacher). I was so worried before I left that I would be bored here in my first few weeks but actually I've been staying super busy. Last Wednesday we didn't do much to celebrate my birthday because most of the family went to Cape Coast for a funeral, so it was kind of sad being away from friends and family in DC for that. I'm 18 now though, woo hoo! :) Last Saturday I spent the day with some friends at an awesome mostly deserted beach, which was really cool.

There really is no typical weekend day, though I think my routine for Saturday mornings will be waking up early to do my laundry then going downtown to the AFS office for Twi lessons and Sunday mornings will be spent at a loooong church service.

On a typical week day I wake up at 5:15 or 6:00, depending on whether I am going for a jog on that day or not. Then I get my things together for school, take my bucket shower, put on my uniform, and eat breakfast. Even on weekdays, my host family makes awesome breakfasts like french toast or omelets.

At 7:00 my neighbor, Eko, comes over and we get a tro tro together to school (tro tros are big vans that are used here instead of buses). He is in Form 3 at my school (which is the equivalent of being a senior – I’m in Form 2), studying business. Depending on the day of the week we either go to mass, have class meetings, or line up in front of the school once we get there. I’m in school every day from 7:30 – 3:00 with a 40 minute break at 10:30 and a 15 minute one at 1:20. We have five classes per day, with plenty of free time in between because teachers are often late. There is a canteen that sells all of the typical Ghanaian food (banku, fufu, wakye, rice, stew, fish) as well as packaged cookies and chips and fresh fruit. Usually I’m not too hungry, so I get a pineapple or a couple bananas and a bag of peanuts (called “groundnuts” here). The fruit lady peels and cuts up whole pineapples while you wait, then gives you all the fruit in a bag with a little fork to eat it with. It’s awesome.

At about 3:30 I go to cadets practice, which is the junior Air Force training at school. We spend most of our time practicing marches and learning commands. I’ve gotten the basics down now – attention, at ease, about face, fast march, etc. – so now I’m practicing with the rest of the squad for a parade that is coming up. I never pictured myself marching and saluting for fun, but it’s basically the only extracurricular activity the school offers (besides choir, and I don’t think anyone would want me to join that haha) and it has been a good way to get involved and make new friends. And I actually, amazingly, enjoy it!

After cadets practice I walk home, which takes about 30-45 minutes. Once I get home I’m usually hot and tired. Sometimes, I take another bucket shower (then slather on the bug spray!). By this point it's about 6:00 and I have some time to do homework or go on the computer or help cook or play with my little host cousins. I eat my dinner at around 6:30 or 7 (meals here aren’t served family style and everyone eats at different times). After dinner my family likes to watch their soap operas and my host cousins and I usually just hang out and talk. Recently, the power has been going out every other night, which leaves not too many options for things to do after it gets dark. Perfect opportunity for my cousins to give me Twi lessons! I’m in bed by 8 or 8:30 because I have to start it all over again early the next day.

Twi word of the day:
Maakye – Good morning (pronounced mah-chay)

Monday, September 17, 2012

Please take 10 minutes to read this post by a fellow YES-Abroader!

Last week I was going to do a 9/11 blog post,  but I was too busy and decided that my priority should be a post about my first impressions in Ghana (see the post below). Instead, I encourage you all to read this amazing post by Hannah, a fellow YES-Abroader who has been in Malaysia for two months now: http://withlovefrommalaysia.blogspot.com/2012/09/11-years-later-how-living-in-primarily.html#comment-form . Reading Hannah's insights makes me feel so honored to be among such an awesome group of young people!
Also, as promised, here is the full list of other YES Abroad students and their blogs for the 2012-2013 school year (unfortunately I can't take credit for putting together this list):

Bosnia and Herzegovina:


Katie Wells - http://katieelise27.blogspot.com/


Anna Wright - http://ljubavfromsarajevo.blogspot.com/


Emma Goldrick - http://blogsnia.tumblr.com/


Savannah Wooten- http://savannahinbosnia.tumblr.com/


Helena Ratte


Ghana:


Sarah Bibbey - http://www.lifehomeandabroad.blogspot.com/


Lydia Larson - http://lydiainghana.blogspot.com/


Emily Simpson - http://goneghanaian.tumblr.com/


Jeneni Withers - http://www.jeneni.tumblr.com/


Ann Elise Trafford - http://annelisetoghana.blogspot.com/


India:


Ryley Conway- http://ryleyconway.blogspot.com/


Mila Loneman- http://mountains-to-milz.tumblr.com/


Lauren


Rowan Croswell


Maggie Alexander- http://overdosingonvitamind.blogspot.com/


Indonesia:


Julianne Thomson http://julianneindonesia.tumblr.com/


http://overthearchipelago.blogspot.com/


Morgan Lide- http://morganinindonesia.blogspot.com/


Sara Britton- http://skippingoceans.blogspot.com/


Sabine Rogers - http://yearinindonesia.blogspot.com/


Darlene von Maschmeyer


David Dennis http://indonesianenterprise.blogspot.com/


Hamza Awaisi http://hamzainindonesia.blogspot.com/


Avery


Malaysia:


Hannah Foster- http://withlovefrommalaysia.blogspot.com/


Teresa Califano- http://teresainmalaysia.blogspot.com/


Kaila Olson- http://kailagoestomalaysia.wordpress.com/


Rachael Acker- http://ackerrk.tumblr.com/


James Llewellyn- http://nznewbie26.blogspot.com/


Ari- http://purplethyme.com/


Morocco:



Caleb South- http://irabat.blogspot.com/


Cheila Diao- http://maroclebel.tumblr.com/


Kalyn Cai- http://24-aout.tumblr.com/


Manal Berrached


Noa Gur-Arie - http://lesoukimaginaire.blogspot.com/


Jonathan Liebman- http://shishka-blog.blogspot.com/


Oman:


Hannah Swearman- http://hannahadventuresabroad.blogspot.com/


Peter Atwill- http://peteratwill18.tumblr.com/


Lisa MacKenzie - http://lisacamillemackenzie.tumblr.com/


Claire Franco


Dylan Hoey


Thailand:


Augsuta Davis - http://doingthingsthethaiway.tumblr.com/


Carly Houk- http://carlyhouk.blogspot.com/


Christina Legradi - http://dreaminginthailand.tumblr.com/


Amina Shabazz


Alexandra Pryor


Turkey:


Rya Inman - http://ryagoesabroad.blogspot.com/


Olivia Astrid Lopez - http://edgyrawrish.blogspot.com/


Miranda Kubasti- http://mirandainturkey.blogspot.com/


Linnie (Saralinda) Schell


Ruby Fore - http://rubyfore.wordpress.com/


Bridget Houston


Hana Swift

For the past few days I have been without internet so I'm sorry if I haven't responded to your emails or Facebook messages! I want to do another post about the past week but I don't have time right now. Hopefully later in the week our internet will be back up and I'll have time to write.

In other news, I start school tomorrow! :)

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

First few days in Ghana

Today is my fifth day in Ghana and my first day with my host family, and I have lots to share!

We arrived late on Friday night and spent the night at The University of Ghana - Legon guest house. Saturday and Sunday we went to Cape Coast where we toured the Elmina and Cape Coast castles and went on a canopy walk through Kakum National Park. It was great that in our first two days we were able to see three of the major tourist attractions in Ghana. From the castles I gained a greater appreciation for the impact of the slave trade on Ghana and the cruelty that so many Ghanians had to endure. They are the two largest slave-trade history museums in the world! The canopy walk was 40 meters over a rain forest and had really cool views of the surrounding area. The next two days (Sunday and Monday) we were back in Accra. Our time here included a visit to the U.S. embassy where we talked to the Chargee (who is the person in charge right now since they are in between ambassadors) and other staff. We also walked through the largest market in Accra and learned how to use the tro tro, which is a large van packed with people that they use instead of buses. On the second day we had several orientation classes at the AFS office and met all of the staff there. We also went for a night time walk around the university and spent a lot of time just sitting and chatting, getting to know each other.

Yesterday the exchange students split up to go to their host communities and I spent most of my day at the AFS office because no one was at my house until about 4. It was great to finally go to my house and meet my host family. Right now extended family is here from out of town for a funeral that was last weekend, so the house is packed full of about fifteen people. I think only about eight live here normally. Everyone has been very nice to me and made me feel welcome. They've hosted every year since 2005 (seven exchange students so far!), so they are pros by now. 

I think that I came here expecting Ghana to be more developed than Paraguay (not sure why) but that's not what I have found. My house is very simple - we do not have running water inside and the electricity goes off frequently. I share a small room with my host sister, Pearl. To wash hands, brush teeth, flush the toilet, or do anything really, we fill a small tupperware with water from a big sealed bucket and use it to pour for whatever task we're doing. Then we re-seal the bucket and put the tupperware away. This morning I took my first bucket shower and actually loved it. My sister, Pearl, filled a medium bucket with about 5 gallons of water for me (I assume that eventually I'll fill it myself) and I washed my hair and body by using the tupperware to pour water over myself. I was able to get just as clean as I do using 25-50 gallons of water in the US with just 3 or 4 gallons here (there was leftover water in the bucket at the end of my "shower"!) I like living this way because I feel like I am getting a really authentic experience, as opposed to living with a wealthy family where everything is pretty westernized.

All of the things I heard about Ghanaians being super friendly has proven true. They love "obrunis" (white people) here and everyone smiles and waves at us or tries to talk to us on the street. Little kids especially get excited when they see us. It is nice getting this kind of attention, but it can also work the other way - at Elmina Castle all of the AFSers were mobbed by people trying to sell us things or get our email addresses and phone numbers. It was overwhelming and a little scary, but we were told that this is something we will have to get used to because everyone here assumes that foreigners have tons of money, so they will try to take advantage of you.

In Ghana English is the national language, but it is not the most frequently used. My host family speaks pretty much exclusively in Twi unless they are talking to me. This is frustrating because I can't really follow the conversation or know what's going on unless it's someone trying to converse directly with me. It is good, though, because it makes me even more determined to learn it as quickly as possible. 

The food leaves something to be desired...I have not liked the majority of the traditional dishes I've tried so far. It's hard to describe the flavors here but most of their dishes are very spicy stews eaten with very sour dough that tastes a little like uncooked bread. The dough is called fu fu or banku or kenkey depending on whether it is made from cassava, maize, or something else. This is eaten with the hands which also takes some getting used to. Our bus driver was teaching me how to eat and he pointed to each of his fingers saying "there are five, they spell S-P-O-O-N" - hahah. Since I have gotten to my host family they've been serving me simple dishes, I think to ease me into the cuisine. The two meals I have had here have been really, really good. My host-aunt is a caterer so she is an awesome cook. AFS warned us that nutrition is kind of a problem here because vegetables hardly exist in their diet (it's mostly carbs, with some meat too). Glad I brought those vitamins!

I am happy to finally feel somewhat settled in and be done travelling. I start school on Monday at St. Margaret Mary's Catholic Technical Secondary School (that's a mouthful!). AFS staff here said that instead of going to school for half the day and teaching for the other half (which was the original plan), I should go to school for the first 4-5 months and teach for the last 5-6 months so that we don't jeopardize my student residency permit. If I can fit it in my schedule while I am in school I may still volunteer at a school after classes 1 or 2 days a week. I am also hoping to join the soccer or track team. I'm excited for all of this to begin! I have a feeling that the rest of this week will be low-key. Later today my host siblings are taking me for a walk to get to know the neighborhood and a host cousin is going to teach me the traditional Ghanaian azonto dance. Hah! We'll see how that goes :)

I was thinking that I should include a Twi word at the end of the each post, so here's the first one:
Akwaaba - Welcome
Pronounced "ah-kwah-bah"

Thursday, September 6, 2012

Pre-Departure Orientation in New York (and other random updates)

In about a half an hour I leave for JFK Airport where I'll fly to London and then Accra. I arrived in New York yesterday and then last night and today were spent doing orientation activities and icebreakers. This is my third orientation so far, and I will have three more throughout my year in Ghana. My first two orienatations - in Denver and DC in February and June - were put on by the YES Abroad program, whereas this orientation was by AFS. AFS facilitates the Ghana program for YES Abroad students, so from here on out they will be our primary organization for meetings and other organizational stuff. Regardless of what group has hosted it, I have been extremely impressed with every orientation so far. They put us up at super nice hotels, pay for our travel there and back, and serve us delicious catered or restaurant food throughout our time there.
My schedule for the next few weeks is a 4 day orientation in Accra, meeting my host family, 1-3 weeks free, then school starts. I don't have enough time now but in my next post I'm going to try to provide links to the other YES Abroad students' blogs and previous exchange students in Ghana's blogs.
Also I added a thing at the top where you can get updates via email. Sign up for it!

Last Day in DC and Info About My Host Family!

DISCLAIMER: Oops, today isn't my last day in DC...I wrote this two nights ago and forgot to push publish. Better late than never!

So today is my last day in DC....today (and the last few days) have been filled with bittersweet goodbyes and lots of errands and packing. I think that it finally feels real that I am going to be gone for a whole year. No visits back, no easy access to internet, on my own. It is scary but exhilarating. I am fortunate to have some of the best friends and family in the world and it is really hard to know that I won't be able to see or talk to them (at least not as often) for so long. But I also know that it will be just as hard to leave Ghana ten months from now because I am going to have so many amazing experiences and meet such wonderful people.

As promised, here is more information about my host family - I'm going to be hosted in Accra, which is the capital of Ghana located on the coast in the South. The University of Ghana is located there and it is apparently the most "westernized" place in Ghana - seeing fellow Americans and other foreigners there is not uncommon at all. I will live with my host mom, Nancy , who is not married and does not have kids. She lives on a compound with two houses. From what I understand, her dad and brothers live in one house and Nancy, her sister, and her sisters' two sons and one daughter all live in the other house. I'm not sure exactly what she does for a job but I know that she works at a school so I'm thinking that maybe she's a teacher. We have been emailing back and forth since I got her contact info a couple weeks ago and she seems super nice :) She's hosted three other exchange students and has been to America once to visit one of her former students. That's pretty much all I know at this point and as soon as I meet Nancy and the rest of the family I will share more info about them!